Cairo Day 2

Again, sensory overload and lack of sleep conspire against me. I'm just going to list some of the important things I got out of today.

-Much of Egyptian communication comes in the form of indirect communication. People make their feelings known through subtle hints rather than verbal directness. Requests are never met with a "No", but rather a "Well, I mean, maybe, if you want…" or a sighing "do as you wish" that indicates exactly what you shouldn't do.

-Some of the most striking differences with the west cropped up in our Q&A on Egyptian culture. We were urged strongly to not identify ourselves as either atheist or gay. The former might be met with disbelief, incomprehension and a belief the speaker lacks all values. The latter could lead to violence or actually land someone in jail here, something we were pointedly reminded would not be stopped by the intervention of our exchange organization (AFS).

-I finally met my host family. Mahmoud, Nehad (his younger brother) and their parents share a smallish flat not far from one of the main roads. They're unbelievably kind, generous and hospitable. As someone who doesn't like to receive any help, fearing I'm too much of a burden, the offers to get me anything I wanted every few moments are a bit much.

-Offers for more food at meals must be met with the firmest possible "No!", or you will be served more food.

-This city simply does not sleep. I went out with my host brother tonight, and at 12:30 there were still kids running around and playing. Everything hums with electricity. I feel there's a street party everywhere, all night long. We hung around a juice stand (I've probably had more sugarcane juice in the past hour than the rest of my life combined), watching the crowds go by, at a time any American city would be dead quiet.

-I noticed some women in full body burkhas that left only the eyes uncovered. Mahmoud told me this is very, very uncommon and that women are split 50/50 between those who do and don't wear the viel. The chief religious authority in Egypt has ruled women need only cover their hair.